Start off on the right foot by acquiring one of the many home design software packages. Most will have a section on laying tile. It can't prepare a floor or apply glue, but they're terrific at helping you visualize the result and avoid mistakes. They provide design alternatives, measurement help and tips on dealing with glue, cutting tile and so forth.

Be sure to select floor tiles, not wall tiles. The latter are thinner and won't stand up to the pressure from walking.

Give some thought to how to prepare the area.

If it's smooth and not too worn old vinyl or linoleum can be used under the tile. But over time it's subject to warping. Soft spots under the tile can cause cracking.

If you're starting with a concrete surface, check to ensure there are no high spots. You can do this in a few different ways. If you have a long level (three foot or more), lay it across the surface and look for light coming through.

Similarly, this can be done with a 2" x 4", but getting one straight enough can be challenging. To check, take two boards and lay them against one another. Now turn one around 180 degrees and lay it against the other again. That prevents being fooled by both being curved in the same direction.

If you have high spots, they can be smoothed by a coarse belt or disc sander. Small bumps can be chiseled away, but take care not to make the situation worse.

No surface will be perfectly flat, but anything more than 1/16th of an inch can lead to 'rocking' of the tiles. Since they're glued in place, they don't actually rotate. But pressure differences across the surface can cause cracks during use.

Floor surfaces need to be strong enough, too, to prevent flexing that would lead to the same 'rocking' problem. Uneven floors can be smoothed and strengthened with cement-fiber board or by using a composite spread across the surface with a very flat, wide tool.

Now find the center of your floor by taking two strings and laying them across the diagonals of the room. You can use chalk string to mark the lines on the floor and a Sharpie marker pen to mark the center.

Dry lay a few rows of sample tile, starting from the center, to get a feel for the pattern desired and to experiment with spacing for grout. Try to space tiles so that you have no less than a half-tile width at the walls.

Some tiles have built in spacers making alignment easy. Others can be spaced properly using rubber or plastic spacers. For an even look, it's important that the width of the grout (the spacing between tiles) does not vary by more than 1/32nd of an inch (0.8mm).

Trowel out adhesive using a notched or saw-toothed trowel. For tight spots, lay the adhesive on the tile instead. In both cases, aim for low, long ridges. Lay the tile down and rotate back and forth slightly to seat.

Once a few rows are laid, and before the adhesive sets hard, take that long, wide, surface checking tool and a rubber mallet to tap tiles into final adjustment for a level floor.

Grout is easier to apply with one of the nozzled tubes. Lay a bead of a few feet long and wipe away any excess with a damp cloth before it sets.

Floors should cure for a few days to a week before use.

Basements can be cold. Easily solved by turning the latest rage - radiant floor heating - on its side. The grids used underneath tile or wood floors can, with very little adaptation, be hung rather than laid.

Basements can be dark. But that makes them perfect for a darkroom or home entertainment center.

If used for a darkroom, you'll need to plan for proper ventilation and cold/hot water plumbing. You'll also need to plan for partitioning, unless you can guarantee no one will open the basement entrance during those critical moments.

A home entertainment center provides a number of opportunities for creativity. Inexpensive kits today offer a half dozen speakers which can be placed at acoustically advantageous spots for that true theater experience.

You'll want to investigate materials for sound control. Acoustic ceiling and wall tile or wall hangings, non-shag carpet and so forth will all be necessary. Wood floors and walls are attractive, but provide too 'live' an environment for home music or theater systems.

You'll also want to plan the proper lighting system. Track lighting is popular, but difficult to place to keep glare off the screen. Think about building some reflective shelves or sconces, with bounced light off of light wood or metal, make for good alternatives. Not everyone prefers watching movies in complete darkness.

Basements can be wet. Too much seepage can present a hazard and no amount of creativity can turn that to advantage. But, within limits, a moist environment can be a good thing for certain uses - saunas or greenhouses for example.

To plan a sauna, you'll need to investigate current options for hot-water plumbing and steam generation. Several modular systems are available in a variety of price ranges. Drainage is key, since water build up has to be dealt with.

Fortunately, though basements can be cool, since they're enclosed they're generally easy to keep hot once warmed up. Good insulation is key. Cork works well, but can accumulate mold. There are dozens of modern materials with low heat conductivity available.

Proper partitioning can keep the actual sauna area small, while a tiled area can be used for cooling down or toweling off. Paint in warm colors, but allow plenty of time for complete drying.

Greenhouses are easy to make in most basements. Though care has to be taken to control mold and mildew, inexpensive heating lamps can provide both warmth and light for growing orchids and other 'hot-house' flowers.

Extra care has to be observed in planning electrical systems to control water contact. Luckily, modern materials for wrapping under-floor pipes and running wiring through conduit are light-weight and inexpensive.

Whatever you plan to design, be sure to get one of the low-cost devices for measuring radon gas (very seldom a problem, despite hype in the media) and carbon monoxide levels. Proper ventilation is critical for comfort and health.

Take advantage of antique stores, old school remodeling projects and other sources to obtain interesting floors, wall coverings and decorative items. You'd be surprised by what can be picked up for little or no money.

With the average cost of basement remodeling running around $35,000, what better way to turn that problem around?

Serving so many functions, and often for multiple individuals, makes bathroom design a challenge. But it's also an opportunity for tailoring what is often the smallest room in the house to suit the most important needs.

Depending on the height and size of the bathroom users, medicine cabinets, shelves and under sink storage can often be relocated higher or around a corner. That can free up counter space for makeup application, shaving and so on. Lots of medicine cabinet designs, for example, aren't set in the wall but extend into the space a few inches.

Six to eight inch shelves are often placed at chest or chin height in a high traffic area. They tend to store less often used items like spare towels, perfume bottles, etc. Move them higher and provide a collapsible step stool for the shorter members of the household.

Cost is always a limiting factor, but there are two ways to maximize your dollars.

One way is to select higher quality materials and accept a higher initial outlay. The longer use will make the average cost per year the same as using cheaper materials with a shorter life span.

If that's not feasible, plan the design so that lower quality materials can be easily replaced every couple of years. Use screws into L-shaped hooks for large bathroom mirrors whose moulding will tarnish. Lay linoleum in a roll and secure with colored, invisible nails. Glue removal always makes a job many times harder and more time consuming.

Don't scrimp on the cost or installation effort for smaller, but important, fixtures. A noisy fan will quickly become an annoyance. Lights that don't sit at the right angle or provide harsh illumination will produce frustration every time they're used.

Make sure you allocate enough percentage of the budget for quality shower components. Shower heads, knobs, behind-the-wall valves, and so forth that don't last lead to leaks and more frequent replacement. A small behind-the-tile pipe leak can lead to hundreds of dollars in repair costs, increased insect invasion and weeks without a shower.

Consider heating options. For the first time in decades electrical heating is more cost-effective than gas, especially for small, confined spaces like bathrooms. And the odds are it will stay that way for some time to come. If you're planning a floor tile replacement, now is a good time to install radiant under-floor heating.

Several different styles are available, some as easy as rolling a thin sheet of material lined with wiring or mesh that connects to the house electrical system. They're safe and, since heat rises, help to take away not only that cold floor tile but warm the entire bathroom for pennies per day.

Often bathroom remodeling projects can be carried out in pieces. Floors one month, cabinetry the next, then showers or toilets and so forth. Make it easy on your budget and your back. Plan ahead and you can create that personal space that gives you the ideal place to wash your cares away.

Most room additions should be carried out with the help of professionals. But if you're good with tools and have the time and patience, there are projects that can be completed with minimal help.

If you're adding onto an existing home, some parts will definitely require the services of a professional. Amateur builders are simply not equipped to lay foundations, deal with complex zoning or permit issues, and the like.

But, if your project is simpler you may be able to carry it out yourself. Converting an attic to an additional bedroom is within the ability of most who have some experience with home projects. Converting a closet is usually even simpler. Dividing an existing room into two can sometimes be carried out in a few weekends.

First, look online for one of the many 'plans' sites. Room plans are often available for anywhere from $10-$100, often toward the lower end of that estimate. Shop around and ask for samples, since some are as simple as a few sketches containing ideas, while others have complete blueprints and plans.

Measure the space and decide whether you will be adding walls - such as a divider for an existing room - or tearing some down. Get estimates for 2 x 4's, panels, moulding, screws and nails, etc and form a budget.

One plan for dividing an existing room, for example, is simplicity itself. It uses a homosote panel - a kind of pressboard in service for over 100 years - held between strips of moulding. The panel is placed along a line to divide the room and held in place at the top with double-sided tape or L-braces screwed into studs. Some materials provide soundproofing as effective as ordinary plaster drywall.

Next up in the level of difficulty is the classic skeleton of 2 x 4's. With an assistant to hold ends, tools, etc this can be erected in a few weekends. Be sure to take the time and care to make cuts at right angles and fit pieces together precisely.

Some are simply nailed together, but L-braces will provide for better structural integrity. Sections, and sometimes the entire wall, can be constructed on a cleared floor and hauled up into place.

Be sure to develop plans for any needed wiring or computer cabling before you get out the hammer and nails. Unless you have extensive experience, electrical work is almost always better carried out by a professional. Non-professional wiring work can violate home insurance policy rules, so read the fine print and consult your insurer.

Be sure to research any permit, environmental, safety codes or other legal issues before getting started. The room addition inspection and permitting process usually has different components. Basic foundation and carpentry aspects are covered. But, depending on the kind of construction, plumbing and electrical permits may be required. You don't want city, county, or state inspectors requiring you to make expensive adjustments after you're done.

Take a hammer and a flat-head screwdriver, with a thin blade and flat, sturdy handle and tap the pin on the bottom hinge upward. Try to get it about 7/8 of the way out then stop. Tap the top pin up the same amount.

Pins can stick for any number of reasons. If the door hasn't been used for a while, or if the hinges are rusty or painted over, you may find it necessary to apply rust remover or paint remover first. Usually tapping with persistent, sharp blows is enough to do the job, however. Avoid scraping the frame with the blade of the screwdriver.

At this stage, it's helpful to have a partner to ensure the door doesn't fall after the pins are completely removed. Remove the bottom pin first, while holding the edge of the door to prevent movement. Take care to keep your fingers out of the space between the inner door edge and the frame. If the door moves, you'll get a nasty pinch. Holding, or with your partner holding, the outer edge of the door remove the top pin.

With luck, the door will still be balanced on the hinges and you can insert your fingers into the inner edge and lift the door away. If necessary, grab the outer edge and the top and lift away.

Provided the old door isn't too warped, it can be useful for size comparison with the new door. New doors sometimes need to have the bottom trimmed an inch or two. Trimming is best carried out at the location you bought the new door, if possible. Measure the old one before you purchase.

If you need to replace the hinges, unscrew the hinges from the frame and the old door. If you plan to reuse the old hinges, now is a good time to clean them and dust the hinge cracks with carbon or silicon powder.

It's possible to use sewing machine oil or light grease to lubricate hinges. But, over time, that causes them to accumulate dirt and grit and eventually wear and squeak. A better method involves using a kind of powder popular with professional locksmiths.

This very fine carbon or silicon powder is sprayed inside the lock to keep tumblers rotating smoothly. It makes for a good lubricant for hinges, too, and can be easily wiped away cleanly.

Check the door frame and ensure that the screw holes will stand up well to reuse. If necessary, fill with wood putty, let dry, then drill a small starter hole for new screws.

Screw the refurbished or new hinge into the door frame. Measure and trim the new door to size and attach the hinge. Set the door onto the hinges and work the top pin in first about half way. Then work the bottom pin in part way (at least half, if possible).

Tap the pins in the rest of the way. Congratulate yourself on a job well done.

They come in a dizzying variety of textures and colors today and they offer good stain resistance. They're easy to clean as well. Laid down over plywood, they can be replaced in a weekend, though scraping glue off for hours isn't much fun. It's sometimes easier to replace the entire plywood plank.

Ceramic tile can be another modest cost option. Some tiles are as low as a few dollars per square foot, though prices can reach as high as $50 per tile. They're easy to install in new kitchens, but fairly difficult to replace or repair. Once glued down, they form a strong bond with the surface. Replacing them requires gouging out the grout and prying up the old tile.

Grout is always a problem with ceramic tiles, since the rough surface and the type of material make cleaning a difficult chore. Tiles are often very durable, but once they crack replacing them is often not carried out. Over time, the surface looks old and shoddy.

They do offer a very easy to clean surface and can last the lifetime of the house if they're well cared for. They're heat resistant and don't stain or scratch easily.

Styled concrete is one of the newer options, and it can often be installed for $50 per square foot. It's almost impossible to scorch and can be colored to taste.

Concrete is heavy, though, and requires extensive drying time before it can be used. It needs to be properly sealed, usually more than once. Installation is generally best left to professionals.

Stainless steel is also coming into vogue again. Costing around $50-$65 per square foot, it's in the middle of the pack in terms of price. It does show scratches easily, though some pre-roughened styles help to hide this. It's easy to clean, but the surface can become splotchy over time.

Marble has been around for countertop use for centuries. It can be expensive at $75 per square foot, but it looks great new or old. Since it's porous, it will require regular re-sealing to avoid absorbing stains and becoming discolored. Marble comes in a wide variety of styles, each one unique to the source of the material.

Granite makes for one of the best countertop surfaces, though you pay a premium for that. Prices start at $80 per square foot and rise rapidly. The material is highly resistant to scratching and won't stain if sealed properly. It looks stellar, but installations almost always make seams and have to be carried out by a professional.

Combining the best of old-world looks with modern technology, engineered stone is a good option. Mildly expensive, prices start at $50 per square foot and rise moderately. Just about any stone-like pattern can be reproduced and surfaces can be made unique.

The material never needs sealing and resists stains and scratches. Heat resistance is rarely a problem with these materials. Professional installation is common, but some can be carried out by skilled do-it-yourselfers.

Whichever you choose, consider how long you'll own the house and what you intend to use the surface for. Initial outlay should not be the only factor. Think long term.

How well insulation carries out those tasks is measured by something called the R-value. The 'R' stands for 'resistive', in this case to heat transfer. The higher the R-value the more effective the insulation.

Which R-value insulation is appropriate for your home depends on several factors: local climate, the other components in the house (walls, ceilings and floors, carpets, windows, etc) and the general quality of the construction. Which is actually used depends largely on local building codes and costs.

Keep in mind, you don't always want the highest number possible. Houses have to breathe in order to maximize your health. You can get some guidance for which is best for your circumstances by contacting the local utility company or by talking to a knowledgeable person at the building supply nearest you.

Apart from walls, carpets and windows there are two basic elements of insulation in most homes: weather stripping and foam.

Weather stripping usually takes the form of rubber moulding placed around doors and sometimes windows. Replacing it is just a matter of removing the old strip and gluing or tacking the new one in place.

Foam generally comes in two types, sheet and particle.

Sheet foam is a strip of insulating material similar in texture to dried cotton candy (only not sticky!) and often available in long rolls. The woven material contains numerous air pockets that, along with its non-conductive nature, provides insulative ability. Sometimes the strips are covered with a kind of paper, sometimes even backed by a type of aluminum-like foil.

Laying the sheets down is simple when the area is accessible. In attic areas, for example, the sheets can simply be unrolled between two by four support members. Make sure to step only on the beams (joists), never in between. Ceilings aren't made to be walked on.

The other major type of insulation comes in small chunks, often 'blown in' by professionals using a specially made machine. You don't need a multi-thousand dollar machine, however, to replace small amounts. The material is often some kind of fiberglass. Other kinds of insulation, such as cellulose, silicates, etc are sometimes used within walls.

Obtain as many bags as you require to cover the area at least a few inches deep. How much you need depends, obviously, on your climate, the size of the area, etc. Consult your local building supply or knowledgeable home center store clerk.

When working in an attic area, again stepping only on the beams, put on some latex gloves and toss the material over the area needed. The gloves aren't for safety, per se. The insulation isn't toxic, but if you work with it for a couple of hours you might find your hands uncomfortably dry and itchy.

Avoid crushing the foam after it's spread over the area. The air pockets formed are part of what help provide insulation.

Most screens come in two basic types: standard window screens and screen doors.

Window screens are held in by friction and often a set of bow-shaped springs attached to the frame at the top and/or sides, also. Use the tabs integrated into the frame to lift up or sideways, whichever direction you have the most space.

Work at least one corner free, being careful not to twist more than a centimeter (half an inch). Screens aren't moved often and tend to stick. Be patient and work them loose a little at a time.

Lay the screen flat on a large, smooth surface. If you're concerned about scratching paint off the frame, put down a sheet or blanket first. Remove any stays or screws inserted through the mesh.

Screens are held in with a spline (a thin, cylindrical piece of rubber-like material) inserted into a shallow channel. Find the point where the spline ends and work it loose with an ice pick, tweezers or a screwdriver. Pull gently, but firmly, until the spline is removed. The screen mesh should pull out easily now. Always take care not to bend the frame.

Rolls of replacement mesh can be purchased at hardware stores or online in various lengths and widths. Kits typically come with a length of replacement spline. Measure your screen and allow for some waste. Pick up a spline roller, too. A small, wooden-handled tool with a metal roller on one or both ends, a spline roller looks like a pizza slicer with a dull circular blade.

Measure the inner frame twice, then the mesh twice. ('Measure twice, cut once' the old saying goes.) Cut to size, leaving about half a centimeter extra (2/10ths of an inch) on each side. You want to avoid having excess to cut off when the mesh is in place, but still have enough to get in the channel and around the spline.

Make sure the channel is completely free of any debris (old spline pieces, screen mesh, tiny gravel, etc). Place the mesh over the frame and stretch it tight, but not tight enough to cause ripples. It helps to have a partner at this stage. Work the spline into the channel, making sure the mesh doesn't twist or slip from underneath. Stretch the spline slightly as you go.

You can measure and pre-cut the spline but it isn't necessary. Leaving it uncut allows you to make adjustments as you work it into the channel. Place the spline along one edge at a time, starting in the middle and working toward the corners. Work your way around the channel, keeping the screen stretched smooth and taut.

Avoid ending a spline piece at a corner. More tension on the mesh occurs there and you don't want the corners to work loose. Try to keep the lines of the screen mesh parallel to the edges of the frame.

And did I mention you should avoid bending the frame? Ok, last time for that.

Cut the spline and work the end into the channel. Clean out any dirt and debris from the window frame where the screen will be placed. Lift the screen into place and adjust using the tabs and frame so as not to leave any air gaps. And be careful not to bend... oh, you know that by now.

Correspondingly there are traditional ways and some modern, that help overcome the problem.

For plastic pipes, the boiling water method may soften joints presenting a risk of leakage. Unless you know your pipes are made of material that can withstand the heat, it's best to use another method. Some can even stand up to hot grease, which may have cooled and caused the problem in the first place.

For more stubborn clogs an ordinary plunger may do the trick. Be sure to use a cup plunger, not a flange plunger. The latter is shaped for use with toilet bowls.

In double-sided sinks it may be necessary to use two simultaneously or plug up the second hole. Often a towel is sufficient, sometimes you'll need to improvise with a heavy pan, a plastic bowl or some other means.

Plunges should be sharp and short. If pressure is going to relieve the plug, it will need to be high, but not long. If that seems to have worked, once again follow with a long rinse of hot water. That will both cleanse out remaining debris and test the results.

For those serious stoppages, you'll need an augur or at minimum a straightened metal coat-hanger. If you can find the latter anymore! An augur is a stiff, coiled wire typically in a metal housing with a handle for moving the wire.

Take care when using the augur not to puncture pipes or drain traps. Did we mention you should first remove the plastic and/or metal drain stop? Sometimes removing hair and soap from this is enough to clear the passage.

Extend the augur or snake the coat-hanger down a few inches. It will be difficult to distinguish between resistance from curving pipe versus running into the clog, but try. Turn the crank handle firmly, but don't force it.

Be careful not to force the snake or augur to the point that in-pipe traps or filters are broken. Those plastic pieces will make a bigger problem to solve, requiring you to remove the pipe. Some types of augurs can be attached to a drill, but if the clog is that severe you'll generally want to try other methods first.

As a next to last resort, chemical drain cleaners can be useful. Used according to the directions, they're safe for pipes and people. Always be prepared to wash off any that contacts your hands or arms, and wear safety goggles if there's any risk of splashing.

Really severe clogs may require removal of the pipe. Usually it's the bend in the U-shaped pipe that contributes to the clog. But if you can't clear the clog without removal, you may or may not make any better progress having the pipe in hand. Sometimes a plumber is your only remaining option.

A house has an amazing number of distinct systems: electrical, plumbing, insulation, siding and/or paint, air conditioning and heating, windows and doors and several others. If defective, or poorly built or installed, headaches can run from expensive repairs to life-threatening conditions.

Whenever possible take advantage of viewing the house during construction.

Insurance regulations will often forbid anyone but licensed professionals from seeing the house during working hours. But carpenters and other home-building professionals start early and leave in the afternoon when there is usually still daylight. Take a little trip and look around.

Don't make a pest of yourself or try to confront the contractor when you think you see something done wrong. Polite questions are ok, but angry accusations generally have the opposite of the desired effect. Use an intermediary to express your concerns.

At various stages, look for electrical systems that are designed to carry the appropriate amount of current and if needed, 220 volt outlets for your needs. Most homebuilders are honest, but sometimes they shave costs by installing circuit breakers and other components that are lower rated than you might need.

Perform some simple arithmetic by adding up all the wattage for computers, appliances, etc that you expect to have. Increase the amount by at least 30%, then divide up among the different circuits in the house.

Check to ensure that insulation isn't lying against sharp metal edges. Even though the wiring is stationary, insects and rodents can chew through these and expose the wire, producing a short.

Check the plumbing to ensure that pipes are routed in a way that will make later replacement and/or repair as simple and low-cost as possible. If the house is already constructed or far along, there's little you can do to change it, but it's always best to know.

If construction has reached the stage where running water is available, check for leaks. It's not unheard of for even brand new homes to have second floor toilets or sinks that leak water down the insides of walls. Though it's unpleasant to have to make other living arrangements or argue with homebuilders, it's better to know before you move in.

At the later stages, windows and doors will be placed in frames. Both are generally made very precisely by manufacturers in standard sizes. But frames, sometimes unfortunately, are always hand made and can be out-of-square and even have the wrong dimensions.

Take a measuring tape and a T-square. Measure some frames to ensure they're standard sizes. You'll want later to be able to buy shades that fit properly. If the windows and doors are in place, check that there are no air gaps.

Most homes are well-constructed by honest, highly competent professionals with years of experience. But, occasionally, you'll find a job where costs have been shaved or the workmanship isn't up to par. Don't be shy about protecting what in most cases is your largest investment, not to mention your future home.

Steel kits are available for around $100. They're strong, come in various sizes and can be constructed in an hour or less even by those without superior 'do-it-yourself' skills. They typically will hold a DVD, cable box and the TV itself. Many of the newer HDTV sets come with a slot for a cable card, sometimes eliminating the need for a separate, external box.

Alternatively, you can build your own TV/DVD stand out of wood. There are dozens of free plans online. Here's one elegant and simple style with a low-cost parts list.

Purchase two 90cm by 60 cm (3 ft x 2 ft) planks of cedar, 2.5cm (1 inch) thick. Cedar is naturally beautiful and doesn't require staining, though you can use a semi-transparent stain if you want to finish the wood.

Take a saw and, starting at the base, cut a curved pattern. Try a shape similar to a folk guitar. The curve makes for a nice design and adds strength to the support. Sand the edges smooth.

Groove the planks a centimeter and a quarter (half an inch) deep, several centimeters (a few inches) from the top. These are called 'dadoes'. Make additional grooves for shelves to hold the DVD, etc. Grooves can be made with a router or the old-fashioned way with a gouging tool.

Purchase shelves at whatever width you need for your set. They should be wood to maintain the simple, natural-looking style, though you could use glass or even metal. Slide the shelves in, then - if needed - screw in four 2.5cm (1 inch) brass L-shaped supports under each shelf for added strength and stability.

Instead of grooving or L-bracing, you could drill holes for shelf support dowels. This allows some flexibility for shelf height. Tiny metal pins just the right size can sometimes be tricky to find, though.

To hide the wires, you can attach a 10cm (4 inch) strip along one or both sides. Run the wires along the shelves and down the strip to the floor or electrical outlets. You can secure them against the strips with U-shaped tacks. The tacks are inexpensive and easy to tap in, yet tall and wide enough to enclose one or two wires.

You can purchase a stand with your TV, of course. But how often do the ones available fit your particular room and furniture at a reasonable price? Building your own is inexpensive, takes less than a day and is customized to your individual style. Try it!

Main shutoff valves for most tract homes are near the curb, covered by a cement lid with a small rectangular hole. The hole allows public utility workers to lift the lid with a small metal rod with a hook at the end. But they can usually be lifted with a finger.

Rural homes often have a well house or other exterior assembly where the main valve is located. Locate it before you get started.

Once the water is shut off, there can only be a small amount of spill from any remaining water in the hoses and pipes. Clear the undersink area and put down a few towels flat and have a pan at hand.

Undo the connectors. These can be brass nuts or small tin clamps or smaller versions of the screw clamps that attach car radiator hoses to the water pump and radiator. The variety is extensive.

Examine the valves and hoses and replace as needed. In theory that's straightforward. Buy replacement parts and be sure to get plenty of Teflon plumbers tape. In practice a few things can go wrong.

In rare cases, older valves may need to be cut off with a hacksaw or small torch. In very rare cases, older valves were welded on. Replace with the threaded type. Try to leave enough pipe to re-thread, using a rethreading tool. At this stage you will begin to think about paying a plumber. Your call.

Valves and hoses that have been in place for several years will usually have some calcium carbonate build up. That's the white, chalky substance that forms on the surface of cups in the bathroom or shower stalls.

It's usually the guilty party when things stick, but can often be loosened with a few sharp twists. Try not to tug hard, since that can pull pipes loose or cause breaks. Once broken, pipes have to be re-sealed or replaced. Either is usually an unhappy chore since the breaks tend to be where you can't get at them easily.

Once everything is removed, clean the surfaces well with fine sandpaper and/or steel wool, sponge, etc.

Now for the (relatively) easy (but definitely tricky) part. Wrap several layers of plumbers tape to the threaded and smooth surfaces where valves and hoses will be replaced. Most important: remember to thread the tape in the direction in which the valve or hose will be turned. You want to tighten the tape when screwing on the valve or hose, not loosen it.

Screw on the valve, attach the hose and tighten any clamps. Don't over tighten. Things need to be snug, but not to the limit of your wrench.

Turn the valve on slowly, a couple of turns, looking for leaks. If you've done the job carefully, the combination of well fitting threads and carefully laid tape will be fully sufficient to prevent leaks.

Sometimes two or three tries is necessary to get the hang of the technique. One of the reasons for not over tightening the valves. Don't be frustrated if you have to take it off and re-do. It's typically only a once in several years job.

It isn't necessary to produce flowers in abundance and market them in order for your efforts to pay off. An investment of a small amount of cash and a couple of hours per week for a few weeks can substantially raise the value of your home.

You can create a garden to raise the value of your home, or simply because you want to enjoy the beauty yourself. In either case, here are some simple, low-cost, easy guidelines for creating one or more gardens.

Keep it low maintenance. Unless you have lots of spare time (rare these days) and want to spend much of it weeding, pruning, spraying, etc, plant things which require minimal maintenance.

Perennials are flowers that you plant once, then bloom for several years. (Hence the name.) Non-perennials or annuals generally bloom once and die, unless you live in a climate that stays warm all year.

Annuals often provide more color and variety and you can sprinkle them around, but perennials make for a low time-investment option. And with a little effort, perennials can be found in a variety of colors: blue, pink, yellow, purple, red and others.

Foxgloves, lupins, daises, irises and many other species are colorful and bloom year after year with very little or no work. Poppies are another popular type that comes in different colors, such as yellow and pink.

Non-flowering or minimal flowering plants help to flesh out a garden, provide ground cover, and look great. Hostas, herbs such as oregano and sage, or yarrow all work well.

You can even find plants, like tansy, that contain natural insecticides. Rubbing your hands and arms with the juice from the leaves helps keep mosquitoes off. They also produce a beautiful, tiny yellow flower.

Besides looking good, these plants often have delightful aromas that can be smelled from much further away than many flowers.

All are low cost, especially since they usually have to be purchased only once in order to last for years.

Weeding is probably the major time consumer, after initial planting. To minimize the yearly effort, put down a layer of weed cloth, then cover with an inch of dirt. It lasts for years and provides a barrier that keeps weed seeds from blooming by lowering the amount of heat and sunlight passing through, as well as suppressing physical growth.

Many people don't have 'green thumbs'. Use these guidelines and, provided the garden has adequate water and decent starting soil, you'll have a colorful healthy garden for many years.

The site needs to be graded properly, in order to provide adequate run-off after rains or even from simple lawn watering. The house doesn't need to be at the peak of a high hill, but the ground nearby should be at worst flat, preferably with at least a slight slope away from the foundation.

Mold can build up, sometimes making its way into noses and lungs. Continual moisture against walls can wet drywall, leading to weakening and eventual peeling. Plywood floors can be warped, producing bulges in flooring and carpets.

In more serious cases, homeowners can find themselves faced with basements that have an inch or more of standing water. Sump pumps can deal with the problem, but unless the area also holds a dehumidifier or air-conditioner, mold and mildew will form.

It's no accident that foundations are flat and horizontal and walls are vertical and at right angles to the foundation. True, there are architecturally distinct homes that form exceptions. But in the overwhelming number of cases, the simple facts of gravity, human biology and sun movement dictate how a house needs to be built.

Walls not at right angles don't merely look wrong, they're weaker. Trusses that provide support for roofs and cross-members that make walls rigid are all placed to maximize strength, to resist wind, rain and/or earthquakes. Pieces need to be at the correct angle and fit well to minimize leaks and maximize support.

Those simple engineering facts provide even those who lack detailed construction knowledge with a basis to judge the soundness of the job.

Few homes will have joints that fit perfectly, or floors that are perfectly level, or walls that are perfectly vertical. But these elements should be within a very narrow tolerance range in order to properly perform their functions.

Do what inspectors do. Get up above the ceiling and take a look. Even homes without formal attics will almost always have a crawl space of some kind. Be careful to step only on beams, not in between. Unless the house does have a real attic, the 'floor' isn't intended to be walked on.

Check the trusses. There are several standard styles, 'M', 'W', 'Scissors' and others. But they all have to have angled ends that meet well with other members of the roof and walls. Most will have metal on both sides of the member to join pieces. Check for any long cracks in the beam where these metal pieces attach.

A well-constructed home will be on solid, level or sloping-away ground with good drainage and have a strong, well-joined skeleton. Without those two basics, even when all else is done well, homeowners will be faced with expensive problems.

A little inspection goes a long way. Don't rely solely on a professional inspectors report. Even though they're qualified experts, get that added confidence that comes from seeing for yourself.