August 27, 2006
Fixing Clogs
Modern chemistry has created both friend and challenge. Hand soaps, shaving cream and other concoctions make life a lot more healthy and convenient than it was a hundred years ago. But some traditional problems are still with us: clogs.
Correspondingly there are traditional ways and some modern, that help overcome the problem.
For plastic pipes, the boiling water method may soften joints presenting a risk of leakage. Unless you know your pipes are made of material that can withstand the heat, it's best to use another method. Some can even stand up to hot grease, which may have cooled and caused the problem in the first place.
For more stubborn clogs an ordinary plunger may do the trick. Be sure to use a cup plunger, not a flange plunger. The latter is shaped for use with toilet bowls.
In double-sided sinks it may be necessary to use two simultaneously or plug up the second hole. Often a towel is sufficient, sometimes you'll need to improvise with a heavy pan, a plastic bowl or some other means.
Plunges should be sharp and short. If pressure is going to relieve the plug, it will need to be high, but not long. If that seems to have worked, once again follow with a long rinse of hot water. That will both cleanse out remaining debris and test the results.
For those serious stoppages, you'll need an augur or at minimum a straightened metal coat-hanger. If you can find the latter anymore! An augur is a stiff, coiled wire typically in a metal housing with a handle for moving the wire.
Take care when using the augur not to puncture pipes or drain traps. Did we mention you should first remove the plastic and/or metal drain stop? Sometimes removing hair and soap from this is enough to clear the passage.
Extend the augur or snake the coat-hanger down a few inches. It will be difficult to distinguish between resistance from curving pipe versus running into the clog, but try. Turn the crank handle firmly, but don't force it.
Be careful not to force the snake or augur to the point that in-pipe traps or filters are broken. Those plastic pieces will make a bigger problem to solve, requiring you to remove the pipe. Some types of augurs can be attached to a drill, but if the clog is that severe you'll generally want to try other methods first.
As a next to last resort, chemical drain cleaners can be useful. Used according to the directions, they're safe for pipes and people. Always be prepared to wash off any that contacts your hands or arms, and wear safety goggles if there's any risk of splashing.
Really severe clogs may require removal of the pipe. Usually it's the bend in the U-shaped pipe that contributes to the clog. But if you can't clear the clog without removal, you may or may not make any better progress having the pipe in hand. Sometimes a plumber is your only remaining option.
Posted by homeimprovement at 09:13 PM | Comments (0)
August 24, 2006
Fixing Your Sink
Whether kitchen or bathroom, fixing a sink can be straightforward or it can be a nightmare. Much depends on the condition of the valves and hoses leading to them.
Main shutoff valves for most tract homes are near the curb, covered by a cement lid with a small rectangular hole. The hole allows public utility workers to lift the lid with a small metal rod with a hook at the end. But they can usually be lifted with a finger.
Rural homes often have a well house or other exterior assembly where the main valve is located. Locate it before you get started.
Once the water is shut off, there can only be a small amount of spill from any remaining water in the hoses and pipes. Clear the undersink area and put down a few towels flat and have a pan at hand.
Undo the connectors. These can be brass nuts or small tin clamps or smaller versions of the screw clamps that attach car radiator hoses to the water pump and radiator. The variety is extensive.
Examine the valves and hoses and replace as needed. In theory that's straightforward. Buy replacement parts and be sure to get plenty of Teflon plumbers tape. In practice a few things can go wrong.
In rare cases, older valves may need to be cut off with a hacksaw or small torch. In very rare cases, older valves were welded on. Replace with the threaded type. Try to leave enough pipe to re-thread, using a rethreading tool. At this stage you will begin to think about paying a plumber. Your call.
Valves and hoses that have been in place for several years will usually have some calcium carbonate build up. That's the white, chalky substance that forms on the surface of cups in the bathroom or shower stalls.
It's usually the guilty party when things stick, but can often be loosened with a few sharp twists. Try not to tug hard, since that can pull pipes loose or cause breaks. Once broken, pipes have to be re-sealed or replaced. Either is usually an unhappy chore since the breaks tend to be where you can't get at them easily.
Once everything is removed, clean the surfaces well with fine sandpaper and/or steel wool, sponge, etc.
Now for the (relatively) easy (but definitely tricky) part. Wrap several layers of plumbers tape to the threaded and smooth surfaces where valves and hoses will be replaced. Most important: remember to thread the tape in the direction in which the valve or hose will be turned. You want to tighten the tape when screwing on the valve or hose, not loosen it.
Screw on the valve, attach the hose and tighten any clamps. Don't over tighten. Things need to be snug, but not to the limit of your wrench.
Turn the valve on slowly, a couple of turns, looking for leaks. If you've done the job carefully, the combination of well fitting threads and carefully laid tape will be fully sufficient to prevent leaks.
Sometimes two or three tries is necessary to get the hang of the technique. One of the reasons for not over tightening the valves. Don't be frustrated if you have to take it off and re-do. It's typically only a once in several years job.
Posted by homeimprovement at 09:19 PM | Comments (0)
