August 31, 2006
Adding A Bedroom
The average cost for a room addition in the U.S. runs between $50,000 and $65,000. You may want to save that outlay by undertaking the effort yourself. But, be prepared.
Most room additions should be carried out with the help of professionals. But if you're good with tools and have the time and patience, there are projects that can be completed with minimal help.
If you're adding onto an existing home, some parts will definitely require the services of a professional. Amateur builders are simply not equipped to lay foundations, deal with complex zoning or permit issues, and the like.
But, if your project is simpler you may be able to carry it out yourself. Converting an attic to an additional bedroom is within the ability of most who have some experience with home projects. Converting a closet is usually even simpler. Dividing an existing room into two can sometimes be carried out in a few weekends.
First, look online for one of the many 'plans' sites. Room plans are often available for anywhere from $10-$100, often toward the lower end of that estimate. Shop around and ask for samples, since some are as simple as a few sketches containing ideas, while others have complete blueprints and plans.
Measure the space and decide whether you will be adding walls - such as a divider for an existing room - or tearing some down. Get estimates for 2 x 4's, panels, moulding, screws and nails, etc and form a budget.
One plan for dividing an existing room, for example, is simplicity itself. It uses a homosote panel - a kind of pressboard in service for over 100 years - held between strips of moulding. The panel is placed along a line to divide the room and held in place at the top with double-sided tape or L-braces screwed into studs. Some materials provide soundproofing as effective as ordinary plaster drywall.
Next up in the level of difficulty is the classic skeleton of 2 x 4's. With an assistant to hold ends, tools, etc this can be erected in a few weekends. Be sure to take the time and care to make cuts at right angles and fit pieces together precisely.
Some are simply nailed together, but L-braces will provide for better structural integrity. Sections, and sometimes the entire wall, can be constructed on a cleared floor and hauled up into place.
Be sure to develop plans for any needed wiring or computer cabling before you get out the hammer and nails. Unless you have extensive experience, electrical work is almost always better carried out by a professional. Non-professional wiring work can violate home insurance policy rules, so read the fine print and consult your insurer.
Be sure to research any permit, environmental, safety codes or other legal issues before getting started. The room addition inspection and permitting process usually has different components. Basic foundation and carpentry aspects are covered. But, depending on the kind of construction, plumbing and electrical permits may be required. You don't want city, county, or state inspectors requiring you to make expensive adjustments after you're done.
Posted by homeimprovement at 10:41 PM | Comments (0)
August 26, 2006
Judging Construction
Beyond the basics of grading, foundation and floors, and walls and roofs, there are a host of smaller - but still essential - elements to inspect.
A house has an amazing number of distinct systems: electrical, plumbing, insulation, siding and/or paint, air conditioning and heating, windows and doors and several others. If defective, or poorly built or installed, headaches can run from expensive repairs to life-threatening conditions.
Whenever possible take advantage of viewing the house during construction.
Insurance regulations will often forbid anyone but licensed professionals from seeing the house during working hours. But carpenters and other home-building professionals start early and leave in the afternoon when there is usually still daylight. Take a little trip and look around.
Don't make a pest of yourself or try to confront the contractor when you think you see something done wrong. Polite questions are ok, but angry accusations generally have the opposite of the desired effect. Use an intermediary to express your concerns.
At various stages, look for electrical systems that are designed to carry the appropriate amount of current and if needed, 220 volt outlets for your needs. Most homebuilders are honest, but sometimes they shave costs by installing circuit breakers and other components that are lower rated than you might need.
Perform some simple arithmetic by adding up all the wattage for computers, appliances, etc that you expect to have. Increase the amount by at least 30%, then divide up among the different circuits in the house.
Check to ensure that insulation isn't lying against sharp metal edges. Even though the wiring is stationary, insects and rodents can chew through these and expose the wire, producing a short.
Check the plumbing to ensure that pipes are routed in a way that will make later replacement and/or repair as simple and low-cost as possible. If the house is already constructed or far along, there's little you can do to change it, but it's always best to know.
If construction has reached the stage where running water is available, check for leaks. It's not unheard of for even brand new homes to have second floor toilets or sinks that leak water down the insides of walls. Though it's unpleasant to have to make other living arrangements or argue with homebuilders, it's better to know before you move in.
At the later stages, windows and doors will be placed in frames. Both are generally made very precisely by manufacturers in standard sizes. But frames, sometimes unfortunately, are always hand made and can be out-of-square and even have the wrong dimensions.
Take a measuring tape and a T-square. Measure some frames to ensure they're standard sizes. You'll want later to be able to buy shades that fit properly. If the windows and doors are in place, check that there are no air gaps.
Most homes are well-constructed by honest, highly competent professionals with years of experience. But, occasionally, you'll find a job where costs have been shaved or the workmanship isn't up to par. Don't be shy about protecting what in most cases is your largest investment, not to mention your future home.
Posted by homeimprovement at 09:16 PM | Comments (0)
August 22, 2006
Judging Construction – Ground and Walls
Even when a homeowner doesn't have the advantage of watching the progress of construction from the beginning, it's still possible to judge the final result. Professional inspectors do it all the time, and they have extensive lists of what needs to be checked.
The site needs to be graded properly, in order to provide adequate run-off after rains or even from simple lawn watering. The house doesn't need to be at the peak of a high hill, but the ground nearby should be at worst flat, preferably with at least a slight slope away from the foundation.
Mold can build up, sometimes making its way into noses and lungs. Continual moisture against walls can wet drywall, leading to weakening and eventual peeling. Plywood floors can be warped, producing bulges in flooring and carpets.
In more serious cases, homeowners can find themselves faced with basements that have an inch or more of standing water. Sump pumps can deal with the problem, but unless the area also holds a dehumidifier or air-conditioner, mold and mildew will form.
It's no accident that foundations are flat and horizontal and walls are vertical and at right angles to the foundation. True, there are architecturally distinct homes that form exceptions. But in the overwhelming number of cases, the simple facts of gravity, human biology and sun movement dictate how a house needs to be built.
Walls not at right angles don't merely look wrong, they're weaker. Trusses that provide support for roofs and cross-members that make walls rigid are all placed to maximize strength, to resist wind, rain and/or earthquakes. Pieces need to be at the correct angle and fit well to minimize leaks and maximize support.
Those simple engineering facts provide even those who lack detailed construction knowledge with a basis to judge the soundness of the job.
Few homes will have joints that fit perfectly, or floors that are perfectly level, or walls that are perfectly vertical. But these elements should be within a very narrow tolerance range in order to properly perform their functions.
Do what inspectors do. Get up above the ceiling and take a look. Even homes without formal attics will almost always have a crawl space of some kind. Be careful to step only on beams, not in between. Unless the house does have a real attic, the 'floor' isn't intended to be walked on.
Check the trusses. There are several standard styles, 'M', 'W', 'Scissors' and others. But they all have to have angled ends that meet well with other members of the roof and walls. Most will have metal on both sides of the member to join pieces. Check for any long cracks in the beam where these metal pieces attach.
A well-constructed home will be on solid, level or sloping-away ground with good drainage and have a strong, well-joined skeleton. Without those two basics, even when all else is done well, homeowners will be faced with expensive problems.
A little inspection goes a long way. Don't rely solely on a professional inspectors report. Even though they're qualified experts, get that added confidence that comes from seeing for yourself.
Posted by homeimprovement at 09:26 PM | Comments (0)
